El Pachuco

 

When I lived in Tucson, I had a friend who was dating a Mexican girl. He went to her family’s home for Thanksgiving dinner where they had a turkey and all the trimmings that we’ve come to expect in the USA. In the middle of the table, however, was an enormous bowl of refried beans upstaging the turkey. As American as they thought they were, they still had to have their refried beans.

So instead of writing about a more traditional Thanksgiving meal, I thought it would be fun to I talk about one of my favorite places to eat at any time, including Thanksgiving.

If you are a visitor driving around the island, please stop at Evie’s El Pachuco for some wonderful Mexican food. You’ll find it on the corner of Tiki Lane and Highway 11. Watch for it on your left as you drive through Ocean View going from the Kona side to Hilo. They are open from 11 in the morning to 6 in the evening, Wednesday through Sunday. Tamales are available on the weekends only.

 

Here is a copy of her menu so you’ll know what to expect. There are also weekly specials that are not on the menu. She promised to make a mole soon.

 

Evie was just delivering two plates of chicken enchiladas with rice and beans to two customers when I walked in. I restrained myself from grabbing one of the plates.

 

Back in the kitchen, her husband, Jimi, let me take pictures of the food in the hot serving pans – chicken, pork, rice, beans. He was making an extra batch of beans because they were about to run out. He’s the strong arm around the place.

 

A little background on Evie and Jimi Gonzales: Jimi was originally a welder shipfitter/pipefitter building commercial fishing boats. Evie was a bookkeeper. In the 70s, Jimi bought an acre in Hawai`i Ocean View Estates (HOVE) with $50 down. They continued to work in California while they paid it off. Then during vacations, he began to build.

Like many HOVE residents, Evie and Jimi eventually moved to Hawai`i to get away from the air pollution in California and to provide a better environment in which to raise their young son (now a DJ on Oahu).

At first their new home was a simple shell with no walls, but it did have an outdoor shower and outdoor toilet. Using the talents of his trade, Jimi built an outdoor cooking area similar to a barbecue pit where Evie made their meals over a fire – including even baking cakes!

About 7 years ago, Evie brought her mother back from Arizona to live with them. She also brought back a thirty-pound block of masa, planning to use it a little bit at a time. When she got it to Hawai`i, it was frozen solid. She had to do something with all that masa, so she made a big bunch of tamales, sat on the side of the road on the back of her van to sell them. Within a couple hours, she had sold them all, and decided that might be a good way to make a little money.

The kind of masa Evie needed wasn’t available here so she started buying small bags of maseca to keep the tamales rolling. She found a distributor and now buys maseca for tamales made of white corn in fifty-pound bags.

I first met Evie when she catered for a Leadership Conference I attended a few years ago. It was some of the best food I’d tasted since I left Tucson – and I knew Ocean View had a gem. But I didn’t know where to get more of her food.

Then I discovered her again one day on my way to our Ace Hardware here in what many residents call “The View.” She was parked alongside the road, selling tamales and more out of her van. For several years, I would buy Evie’s tamales on my way to pick up those items a homeowner can’t live without.

Then she moved down to the parking area of Ka’u Outpost on the highway, just down the road from my house. Almost every day when I drove home from teaching, I saw her sitting patiently on the back of her van. If I had stopped to pick up something every time she was there, I wouldn’t have been able to get in the front door of my house! But I did stop as often as I dared.

 

They have now found an indoor home in one section of the Ka’u Outpost, with little tables where you can eat or wait for take-out. If you’re lucky, she may have some freshly baked brownies or other baked treats to tempt you, as well.

 

I started this post to help spread the word about this special little Mexican restaurant, but didn’t realize I’d get drawn into such an intriguing history lesson. When I asked “What does Pachuco mean?” I was taken to an entirely new adventure. Evie said “It’s the description of a certain kind of person,” and began to tell this story.

In the 30s and 40s, young Mexican-Americans formed their own subculture and were called “Pachucos,” or “Chukes.” I had no idea they were the original zoot suiters. For great pictures and an interesting commentary on this era, check out this article. Also, I recommend that you turn up your speakers and go to this site to get a flavor of the zoot suiter. I’m old enough to remember guys wearing the zoot suit! There was no zoot suit for Jimi today!

 

Jimi came from Chavez Ravine, which is now the site of the Dodgers Stadium. Originally, this area of Los Angeles was the home of Mexican-American families tending their small farms. In the early 50s, L.A. declared eminent domain over the land and the home owners were offered a paltry sum of money for their properties.

The next ten years were violent ones as the owners resisted being ousted to make way for the Stadium. The unfortunate and sad story can be found here. There is a reunion of the Pachucos from Chavez Ravine in Los Angeles every July.

The story of Chavez Ravine and the Pachucos come together because Jimi’s father and Evie’s father were both Pachucos. The logo for El Pachuco, our very own authentic Mexican restaurant, shows a “Day of the Dead” (“Día de los Muertos”) character in a Pachuco stance, wearing an aloha shirt and khaki shorts. I love it!

 

To read a recent account of the situation at Chavez Ravine, read this article.

A side story: Jimi was cooking in the kitchen as I sat at one of the little tables talking with Evie. I had placed my purse on the floor near a door in the kitchen, but Jimi came running in to say I should get my purse up off the floor immediately! He said that if you set your purse on the floor, all the money will run out of it and you’ll always be broke. This site gives a more complete answer to that saying. It’s a sign of respect for your hard-earned money not to put your purse on a dirty floor. I don’t think my purse would ever get dirty on the floor of Evie’s and Jimi’s kitchen!

 

A hui hou!

22 thoughts on “El Pachuco”

  1. Oy, love that story!

    When I was in High School, I was part of a small group of young degenerates who tried to bring the Zoot back. We thought we were totally cool.

    Christmas tamales are a tradition in my family. Maybe she’ll bring her truck up to Kona close to Christmas! Yeah!

  2. Aloha All: I think it shows tremendous aloha ohana spirit to write about a local person and/or their business. Like you did for Evie’s. We also have enjoyed Evie’s mexican flavor (and not just her business). Out in here in Ocean View – in the middle of no where (but growing), Evie often was our only source of real good take home and heat up food. We love her.

  3. Thank you for your comment! Yes, Evie is an oasis in the middle of our desert! I’m happy to see so many people support their efforts to bring quality Mexican food here, but also her total aloha to everyone!
    Aloha,
    Lucy

  4. Hi Lucy! Finally made it! Great blog! My husband and I are always on the look out for good eats, thanks for the tip!

  5. Glad you got here! 🙂 It’s fun letting my students know what I’m up to in my spare time! It helps to keep that circle balanced! Let me know when you plan to come eat there and maybe I can meet you. If you go, be sure to tell Evie you heard about it on my blog!
    Aloha,
    Lucy

  6. Lucy, thank you very much for your blog on my parents place. its very humbling to see people take the time out to recognize my parents, and appreciate their hard work. I am a very proud son. Have a great holiday season, and thank you again.

    james

  7. @Chuck – Aloha
    We are working special hours this week making tamales – take a leisurely drive to OV and check us out – make sure you call in advance to reserve your tamales 939-7475

  8. My cousin and her husband worked very hard to get El Pachuco,
    finally her dream has really come true. Besides being a fantastic cook she also is a beautiful person. Here’s to you Evie and Jimi and of course El Pachuco, the sun finally shines in Oceanside with authentic mexican food………..Love from the Mainland,

  9. @Tim – Aloha
    Thanks for the compliment – We’ve got a great red chili roast beef wet burrito that you should also try….Evie

  10. Oh, Evie! Do you have your red chili roast beef wet burrito available all the time, or is it a special event? I’d love to try that next time. Also, let me know when you’re doing mole again. After Jan. 1, I’ll be by to get some.
    Aloha,
    Lucy

  11. The red chili burrito started as a special, but is so popular that I must be certain I can have it available daily – sometimes I can’t keep up with demand – so I may fall short for a day – but it has been on the “special” list for four weeks straight – it will definitely be on our permanent menu this new year.
    Aloha,
    Evie

  12. Wow, I cant believe I found this post, a few years to late but oh well, Ive been preping for a move to the big island, I just happen to be in Tucson Az! Go UofA! Any tips or advise would bo greatly appreciated!

  13. Oh wow! I did not anticipate a response so fast! i would love nothing more than to coversate further!

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